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Discussion in 'Scooter Projects' started by сука ьлять, Apr 7, 2017.

  1. сука ьлять

    сука ьлять New Member

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  2. BunnyMum

    BunnyMum BunnyMum (aka Northcust)

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    202
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    YZF-R125 (180cc)
    nice project! :cool:
     
  3. сука ьлять

    сука ьлять New Member

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  4. BunnyMum

    BunnyMum BunnyMum (aka Northcust)

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    Rides:
    YZF-R125 (180cc)
    yeah there seem to be lots of general posts but not so many active builders/modifiers... :-\

    tbh I didn't really see any actual questions. Might be worth re-stating them separate from the background info. Sounds like your bike experience is more than mine though so not sure how much I can help. I've not been into bikes long but have been doing welding/fab for quite a while, just mostly on cars till now.

    Out of interest - what sort of welder are you using?
     
    Last edited: Apr 9, 2017
  5. сука ьлять

    сука ьлять New Member

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  6. BunnyMum

    BunnyMum BunnyMum (aka Northcust)

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    Rides:
    YZF-R125 (180cc)
    yeah re-stating the questions might make it easier to get help - The background info is useful & interesting but if the questions are hidden in there it's easy to miss them.

    > I don't have much experience on bikes either, I got into them couple years ago when I got my skipper.

    cool, well you seem to have gotten pretty "stuck in" since then :D

    > As for the welder question, I'm using a stick/arc welder.

    > I've been practicing welding for the past year and my welds now are significantly better, I made this subframe in the very beginning of the build that's why I'm remaking it. I've looked up if stick welding is ok for chassis work and apparently they used it in the past for that kind of work, so hopefully it will be strong enough.

    ah that makes sense re the welding then - I thought if it's a mig your settings are probably a bit off, but if it's stick then you're doing rather well! I've not done stick but I reckon as long as you get decent weld penetration it should be ok. If in doubt I build a mock-up piece and test to destruction ;) The better you prepare the weld surface the better the welds should come out though - I'm pretty sure that's universal. As far as I'm aware stick is fine for thicker metals (e.g. chassis) but doing bodywork is difficult because you tend to blow holes in it.
     
  7. сука ьлять

    сука ьлять New Member

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  8. Tamiyacowboy

    Tamiyacowboy Pippa's Owner

    Messages:
    1,850
    Rides:
    Piaggio Skipper
    jackshaft idea, may work but your gonna be limited for space. im not sure but something like a derbi senda 50cc they run an AM6 motor if im right i know they are a small geared twostroker and when given a 70 kit are fairly spriteful , plus side you can then gear up and down using a larger front sprocket and a smaller rear sprocket , the only problem would be mounting it in the gp1 frame area

    Try the stock pod filter WITHOUT any extra filtering around it. it may work your adding of filter wadding maybe just to much and not allowing any air through ;) . those pod filters are not the best but for testing purposes they are ok buddy .

    2t cdi posted, nope that wont fit a typhoon or a skipper or a prilly sr its ONLY for the runner LC motor , thats what i make out what they mean buddy

    i could not be 100% certain on the 6mm bolt pattern, i would say it would be very close to sheer tolerences pushing 30hp through them , usually parts are over enginered some what but double what they usually take is pushing those bolt patterns to a sheering limit , a lock up would not be a nice thing if your at speed........ you could try but only keep low on the power to just see how they fair even then its still a risk .

    this chap on youtube aka The Workshop did a GP1 turbo project dont know how far he got but he maybe able to help you idea wise : https://www.youtube.com/channel/UChYdD3BgfawTdKlnUJBeOMA
     
    Last edited: Apr 9, 2017
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  9. BunnyMum

    BunnyMum BunnyMum (aka Northcust)

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    202
    Rides:
    YZF-R125 (180cc)
    re the 6-bolts thing ..initially i was thinking perhaps you can get higher spec bolts (I. e which can maybe take more force) but you mentioned the 428 sprockets would generally use 8-10mm bolts..does the sprocket you have come with 6mm holes? I ask because if the sprocket comes drilled for 8mm, I would have thought putting 6mm bolts in would be A Bad Idea as you'd be introducing play into the system...and even if you have super strong bolts which could hold the torque, putting them in 8mm sprocket holes seems like a surefire way to get them to shear. even using bushes seems like a bodge.

    have you got a pic of the wheel where you'd have to tap the holes out? if there's not enough material to support going from 6-8mm then will the wheel even be strong enough to handle the power?

    I'd have thought if you cam go from 6x6mm to 6x8mm then that should handle whatever you can throw at it... a driveshaft/cv joint on a mk2 golf has 6x8mm bolts and that will comfortably handle 150bhp (or 75 per wheel I guess)...

    does that help at all?
     
    Last edited: Apr 9, 2017
  10. сука ьлять

    сука ьлять New Member

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  11. BunnyMum

    BunnyMum BunnyMum (aka Northcust)

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    Rides:
    YZF-R125 (180cc)
    > 6 8mm bolts would hold the power but as I mentioned before but I'm unsure if the material around the holes(in the rear wheel) would be adequate for bigger bolts in terms of strength.

    if that's the case (I. e. not enough material to tap out) then is there going to be enough material to support double the power (regardless what size bolts you use)?

    re welding and re-drilling...just a thought. I dunno how it is with arc/stick welding but with mig the weld (e.g.from welded up hole) tends to end up quite a bit harder metal than the original/surrounding metal...I.e makes it very hard to machine/drill (though obviously grinding works). I just mention because that might make re-drilling the holes accurately more difficult. it's one of the cool features about tig - because the metal is still workable afterwards...(assuming you use the right filler ofc)

    as a workaround could you maybe drill *new* smaller holes elsewhere in the sprocket (e.g. rotated round a few degrees) rather than welding and re-drilling?
     
  12. сука ьлять

    сука ьлять New Member

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  13. BunnyMum

    BunnyMum BunnyMum (aka Northcust)

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    Rides:
    YZF-R125 (180cc)
    ah so the sprockets have the centre part missing like a brake disk? (if I understood it right) that could make it more tricky I guess :confused:
     
  14. сука ьлять

    сука ьлять New Member

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  15. BunnyMum

    BunnyMum BunnyMum (aka Northcust)

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    Rides:
    YZF-R125 (180cc)
    that'll work, plus then you can have whatever size holes you like :cool:
     
  16. BunnyMum

    BunnyMum BunnyMum (aka Northcust)

    Messages:
    202
    Rides:
    YZF-R125 (180cc)
    pics weren't loading before for some reason ...working now and that makes more sense. I see how drilling new holes rotated wouldn't work. custom sprocket ftw...
     
  17. сука ьлять

    сука ьлять New Member

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  18. scubabiker

    scubabiker NITROJUNKIE

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    The main difference between lc and ac is the head, ac has 2 valves lc has 4 and bigger ports, the vario is slightly different on the ac too but only the standard one, aftermarket varios swap right over between models.
    Kinda related, a yamaha ybr engine fits right in a senda 50 frame, same mount points.
     
  19. сука ьлять

    сука ьлять New Member

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  20. сука ьлять

    сука ьлять New Member

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