I recently got a new cylinder for my 2012 aerox and my setup right now is: Stage6 Streetrace 70cc Stage6 Pro Replica Malossi multivar (4,3g rollers) Stock clutch (Malossi red big spring, 15% little springs) 19mm dellorto PHBG 85 main jet with a stock airbox (snorkel removed) Now the problem is it starts rly slowly bogging until around 20-40km/h depends am i going full throttle or 2/4 3/4 etc. Then it hits the power spike and it goes up to 70km/h in matter of seconds. Is there anyway i could get rid of that "dead zone" before the powerspike. I really want to wheelie the thing but im a newbie and i don't feel comfortable training wheelies at 50km/h . Also if i drop RPM's after hitting power spike and it goes below a certain RPM (i don't have rpm meter on) it is really hard to get back to that power spike it bogs until it gets the RPM's back up slowly. From a stand still it usually takes spike around 30km/h when going full throttle because the clutch helps but in mid-speed theres no clutch to help me. I've been thinking about stiffer little springs if those could help the problem since the clutch engages really early. Taking any suggestions, also been thinking about buying maybe stage6 torque control with a stage6 wingcooler bell
Stiffer springs will make it rev more before engaging, so say it engages now at 2000, the power comes in at say 4k or so. Swap to stiffer srings so it engages closer to the power like 3.5k or whatever
I tried 50% clutch springs it still has a little gap between clutch and the real powerspike but it kinda runs well but the problem is even worse at mid speed. Now if i lower speed for a while and then start full throttling it bogs like 100-300 meters before it climbs back to that powerspike. It is still near to impossible to wheelie that damn thing unless you wanna do it at high speeds. I ordered 4g-5,5g roller weight because my old rollers are making sounds. I wish those could help with the problem. Still taking suggestions! Some people suggested on other forum that i could have a wrong sparkplug. I am using BR9HS and people are saying i should try the BR9ES longer thread sparkplug. Could that be the issue but i don't see why it would bog for a while and then just run well.. Me myself i think atm it has way too light roller weights because it screams like an ostrich when it gets near full speed, so im gonna try heavier weights also when i get the set of them.
I dropped the mainjet to 82 it sounds like its running well at least on the top end. But i don't really know how to set carbs perfectly, but i have touched the "air" mix screw and it started a little bit better after that.. I have a lot of freetime soon so i could try to set it up properly (give me tips if you have) And as i say "bogging" i don't mean carburator bogging i just mean it wont get to the powerspike and runs kinda slow so don't let that confuse you on my earlier texts.
ah ok yeah i see.... hmm sounds like a setup issue then, stevep will be here to comment soon i think. he is the man in the know for setups. mopeds are mopeds to me...
Sounds to me that you dont have the correct setup for the carb. Between 1/8 to 3/4 of gas, the needle in the carb does the work. Have you tried to change the clip on the needle? Dont have any clue about you knowlege, but the basics in this is good to know. http://www.iwt.com.au/mikunicarb.htm
Yeah i haven't moved the clip with the new jet but i know how to do it and i will try that now that my vacations start. Now that i think of it, it could be carb problem causing it, thanks!
Have you changed the engine setup without changing the carb? I would say that 85 main jet is too small for dellorto 19mm. Should be around 95. https://www.tuningmatters.com/how-tos/how-to-quickly-determine-the-carburetor-main-jet-size/ What Idle jet do you have?
No i was running a 50cc pro replica stock carb then i switched the 70cc in, and the 12mm carb was not having it so i had to change the carb. Then i started from 98 jet it barely moved because it was running so rich. I went from 98 95 to 92 and it was running a little rich but then summer weathers came (from 0°C to around 20°C) and it was too rich again and then i dropped till 85. Since then it has been running perfect to my ear on high rpm. And i also used that calculation back when i was thinking what jets to buy with the 19mm, 19x5=95 and then i just added 5% just in case and started dropping from there. But i think that calculation didn't lead even 10 numbers close because i am running the stock airbox (snorkel off) Idle jet is the stock one that came in the carb, i believe it's 50 I also found another thing that could be causing this, i bought my malossi multivar as used 1 and the owner said the casual line "it has everything you need and is fully working" well me not knowing what "everything you need" is bought it. Installed it. Well now year later i just happen to stumble by a video about how to install the multivar, i see that i am missing a 2mm adaptor from behind the "roller cup" which you can see from that video at 3:11. I just ordered one and it should be coming this week.
Well i added the little shim behind the variator and then i had to change belt because old one snapped. I went for the malossi x kevlar.. and changed rollers to 4,5s well the problem just got worse because now it doesn't even reach "power spike" i think it has to be something wrong with the belt placement. Because on downhills it can go up to 70km/h but on straight it only goes 40km/h.. My theory is that the belt can't get high in the variator because it's more wide than the old belt. So should i add shim somewhere so the belt could get high on straights also..
I have a new input after the weekend with my own scooter. You say you have standard airbox. How big is the inlet hole to the airbox? Have you tried without airbox? (think your main will be too small and it should problably bog) The airbox is (im guessing based on my experience) right now a restrictor for your carb.
Yes i do have stock airbox but ive removed the airtake snorkle from top of it. And i^ve never ran in to a problem with aerox's airbox on sport cylinders and almost everyone suggested me to keep that airbox. And the problem is still there even with those silly sponges. But it could be carb problem im running in to and im gonna fine tune the carb soon.
I dont know its the problem for you (that the amount of air is too small), but the carb can not have too much air. It can only have too little or too much of fuel in different phases. An airbox is a restrictor in some way, if you take away the airbox, then you have the carbs fully potential. (just put some kind of filter so you dont have sand or so coming in to the carb when you test it) Dont know if you will solve your problem with it ...
Yeah i am looking to buy some sports filter and re-jet my carb. Hopefully main jet size doenst need to go above 100's since i got 75-98 main jet kit and cant be bothered buying jets again.
Keep the box, trust me on this Its far more complex than you think. The airbox inlet should not be smaller than your intake tract (between the carb and engine). Removing the snorkle should be enough unless you have a bigger inlet? I do tuning as a job. Its what im best at...
Yes i do think myself that it should be enough. Guess i just try to jerk around with the carb for a while to look if it is carb problem
If the bike idles well then the idle jets fine. If it revs nicely and pulls nicely when the clutch engages then the clutch springs are fine. If its fine at low speed but starts bogging or losing power and then hits a spike where power returns then it could be the needle clip setting. Put the 85 main jet in and drop the clip down one notch. Try removing the airbox cover and if it runs better then this suggests it may be too rich. Idle will be affected so beware. Then try reducing the airflow with some tape or tissue over part of the airfilter intake. If this runs better then you may be too lean. I find that Adjusting the air flow in and out of the airfilter is a very basic guide to seeing if you need to adjust your jets up or down. You mentioned the spark plug type. The longer thread means the spark sits deeper in the piston chamber so ignition of the compressed fuel is affected. Go with the correct one according to the manual or you can end up damaging the piston. I suggest you google the variator shim as there are some good guides. The shims affect the ride height of the belt but also the alignment of the belt between clutch and variator. If its not riding high enough then this will cause a top end issue and not a bogging one. If its misaligned then your belts will not run true, can cause undue stresses and will snap easily.
Good information and tips will try that.. if my aerox starts running again. I saw my roxy started running slower and slower today and i was thinking thats kinda odd and thought i should head home.. Next intersection it just died and it barely could start. So yeah i ran in to a bigger problem carb problem pipe stuffy? God knows.. i will keep you updated.
Decided to update here as well.. Found the problem why my aerox doesn't run at all at the moment. Good news is i found the problem.. But the bad news could be way worse.. So yeah the reed has cracked some how and probably caused damage on the cylinder side. Not looking forward to open that up.. Also i can't even get new gasket set for this cylinder because it's so rare so i some how gotta work with the old ones. Really sad news for my new cylinder unless i had luck.
