right ive decided whilst i wait for my other parts to get my aerox running im going to fit my crank bearings and seals. anybody got any tips on how to make this easier to do etc.. also i have seen it when peoples bearings are on the crank when they split the cases if this happens how do i get the bearings off the crank? any help appreciated :mrgreen:
best use a new crank but if it happens get heat gun or blow torch and heat the bearings (not the crank) and they should loosen off then when fitting new bearings stick crank in freezer like a day before hand and then heat up cases agen with heat gun/blow torch till hot then press bearing in should push in easily if not something is wrong then heat bearings up and get crank out of the freezer and push it in to one half the cases then heat the other half and push it into that you can also fit the bearings to the crank first then the crank and bearings to cases and remember to make sure seals go into same depth they came out
lol, sooooooo true? ever tried to straighten a leaver? and give it just a touch too much? watch it drop like candle wax. heat gun works good, just take your time , dont rush things, and remember to make sure the crank spins nice and freewhen re-fitted. use the correct tools and grease/gasket goo
gotta be quick enough that when the crank go;s in one side you can get it in the other while the bearing is hot/crank is cold so you can move the crank psition on BOTH bearings when its together (this is what hitting it at the end of a buidl does) put basicly.. look for the million and one threads where ive overly explained this.. or pay somone who knows what there doing to do it. first one usually go's wrong unless you have somone showing you.. took me a good few to get it right as i had to fumble mty way through and figure it out for myself.. not good as it ended up costing me hundreads in fucked unused cranks/bearings
i found when i first did it is speed and heat is the key you get these right and should go ok. i didnt heat the cases up enough one time so bearings didnt go in right but managed to jiggle it out and re freeze. freeze spray might be a good idea for a beginer
IF you need to heat alu with a torch, rub some good old fashioned soap on the surface thats being heated...when it turns brown then the alu is at workable temperature...any further and it'll melt works every time :good:
washing up liquid works better.. soap can somtimes not indicate/flow away befor it shows... burnt holes in thick ali using soap befor now... cheap yellow wasahing up liquid. or plain dont touch ali wiht a torch. can heat it to bendable temp with a heatgun in a FAR more controled temp (can also get cases hot enough to WARP wiht a heatgun) the problem wiht open flames is localized heat buildup.. its too much on too small an area, even if you work the torch it will still warp VERRY easily. buy a heatgun
blow torch does seem waaay to extreme ive put bearing in a case using a hairdryer (no im not lieing before anyone starts slating) and they went in pretty easily and the bike ran fine and stil does but ive got a heat gun now and yes its easier to warm up but gotta be very carful no to overheat/warp teh cases will try the fairy liquid next time i rebuild :good:
:whistle: :whistle: :whistle: didnt do any harm to mine, but i guess i have experience with them in my job lol (old seal was in there btw not new)
Minor, totally agree...it IS easier to use a hot gun. As for soap...I use the real thick bar...leaves a sludge coat on the surface...always works for me Agreed, about the torch too. I'd be using more of a blow lamp tho' with a much wider flame area on alu ...and not the welding torch, far too agressive
