Right, im not sure if this is a problem as such, but mystepdad told me its just the gettin rid of air locks/bubbles in the system... I filled the coolant tank up yesterday and started it ( to bleed it ) ... and after about 2-5mins, the coolant (water) rushed to the top of the coolant tank and overflowed , also the radiator was getting warm... Stupid ass question i think...lool.... .. But is that supposed to happen?
I just saw this post before asking how to refill and bleed properly because now I've fitted everything that's what I need to do .. Do you know and anyone else ??
Im pretty sure you just leave the coolant cap off and leave the bike running so it removes all the airlocks/air bubbles.... Thats what i do anyway.. maybe thats where im going wrong! haha...plenty of people on here with more knowledge than me so dont take my word for it Pistachio lol
You'll be lucky if the pump send any air locks around the system. When you refill, you need to bleed the cylinder head, run it for a minute or two and then try the bleed screw again to amke sure there's no air trapped, You dont beeld systems with the engine running as this drags more in in (same as a central heating system...always bleed rads with the heating OFF) The overflowing of the tank could be down to the fact that the cap is designed to pressurize the system thus allowing it to run at a higher temperature before boiling over. If the caps off or not holding pressure the system will boil at a lower temp when bleeding start at the lowest bleed point, open it til you see coolant and lock it off...then go to the next highest and so on til the system is full. Put the cap on run the bike to temp to allow the stat to open and circulate around the radiator. When its cool check the level in the expansion tank to see if it needs topping up at all
Just about to say about the bleed nipple on the cylinder . So do i put coolant in with bleed nipple loose ... ?? Confusedd
Hi What you described looks like engine overheated expanding liquid and overflowing. It also might be as Stig said pressurized system so better check with manual. Are you using only water? Without any coolant? If so I'm advising to prepare proper mixture and use right coolant for your system as first of all that will reduce boiling temperature (not mentioning freezing point) and secondly will not ruin your rubber connections and finally will reduce of building up scale lime inside cooling system. When I'm bleeding cars (not much different from bikes excluding heating matrix, correct me anyone if I'm wrong) after topping up with coolant to max point in expansion tank, I'm checking and opening all bleed nipples before starting engine. Once done let engine run for a while switch off and try bleed again as bubbles should move to highest points in the system - bleeding nipples. Always check coolant level as if it get to low you might catch more air in the system. Not sure if small engines like yours have thermostat if so eventually you will have to fully warm engine in order to fully open thermostat and release all air. Also you might try to squeeze few times all rubber hoses in order to pump the air out - definitely works on cars. Hope this helps Let us know how it went.
Bit of a noob to the coolant side ... So to refill and bleed properly I : - Keep engine off obviously :L - Take cap off and fill coolant half way - Tilt bike side to side to let air in the tank dismiss - Fill more coolant to the top - Tilt again and let any air out - Put cap back on - Take bleed nipple off and undo Then i get confused if that's even right so far lol ... Very simple but just for my own knowledge because I should be able to hear my bike tommorow with 70's kit , upjet , open airfilter and all the rest ... But can anybody just tell me if im right or wrong or what else ?
Iv taken all this in...but it doesnt do much in my brain LOL... THANKS for the replies though, my stepdad WILL make sense of this once hes home and it should have my problem sorted Thanks guys!!!! ONE problem... What on EARTH is the bleed nipple? i can see ANYTHING to bleed my head with.. ?!
there should be some bolt either on the barrel side or on the head thats not structural or holding anything else on. This will be the bleed screw/bolt/nipple. When its opened, it allows the air out of any trapped sections that may cause air locks
There isnt any bolts like that as such.............ONLY the temp sensor ? and thats a little bolts with a copper washer that goes into the head
Iv got a Polini Sport mate and it doesnt look anything like that.... And it hasnt got any 'bleed nipples' from what i can see ?
if the temp stat is same as the image above, that'll do the same thing, just loosen it till coolant appears and then tighten. Sometimes theres bleed screws on hoses too...have a look around
Nope, nothing mate, no bleed nipples on anythng.... EVERYTHING in that above picture is completely different to my cylinder, Only thing thats remotely similar is the colour! No offence intended Edgar lol, but that looks nout like my cylinder at all
As stig said, use the temp sensor to bleed it. Run the bike, slowly undo it. Air should hiss out and then coolant. When its just coolant coming out, do it back up.
Tried to do my bleeding today and FAIL Put coolant in and my stage 6 streetrace had the temp sensor leaking as it was not tight enough but as it's copper over tighting could crack it and also even the other hose nossle was not tight enough and then the bleed nipple it self was leaking ... when I mean leaking .. I mean from the thread ... Anyways I tightened them all up and see if there leaking tommorow (Hopefully not) I'll carry on trying to get it all setup ....
Thanks for that Fiddy mate, sometimes simple words of wisdom sink in better than full detailed descriptions to me lol.... Will give that a go tomorrow with the temp sensor, its just an alan key bolt with a copper washer , never leaks tbf.... Thanks people.... will report back here once iv done it