Hey. Iv been messin around with clutch springs etc, and iv tried about 5 different sets, and 4 clutches and 3 drums. whatever springs i put in, my clutch engages like instantly but if i put my clutch in a mates bike, it revv's up bites and pulls away nicely, like the revv's id want. and if i put thryre cluches in my bike, it still engages straight away, even with their clutch bells etc how come it engages early on mine, however on everyone elses it revvs nicely then engages
yeahhh nobody has a clue mite get a clutch drum on the lathe and turn the internal diameter bigger loool
yeah i had ligher ones in, too revvy and just made the varitor get stpid hot, because was just slipping the belt instead of clutch
slipping the belt from too light rollers? not quite... belt slip is a result of too little tention on the clutch.. the rollers being light will cause slip if your contra spring isnt stiff enough.. best bet is to messure everything up.. weigh the clutch (could be heavier) and reajust your rollers with the new spring. unless of course your using verry weak springs (remember diff power outputs mean diff biting rpm for the same springs) so somone elses clutch wont rev the same on your bike.. i have polini blues in mine atm and its stupidly high takeoff rpm (like 8k) fuk tho altho the slip is pritty fuckin useless for wheelying
ye i know, remenance from the ported 50.. woulkdent move untill 8k so had to set it that way... thing was SICK for a day.. LOOOOOOOOOOL
iv tried 3 sets of leo vince yellow ones, red and blue doppler ones, and some polini ones that came with variator, all of them do the same im guna wack in a white polini ocntra and my strongest springs and down on the rollers, fun times haha
m8.. do yourself a fav... throw them all away and buy ONE set of ether malossi or polini springs... any springs that come with a pipe are prittymuch useless and springs DO loose tention after time. especially if they get hot (cheap ass materials for yta)
yeah i got new doppler ones mate. its weird because i put my mates clutch on off his bike, with yellow leovince springs and it was fine then i tried 3 diff sets of the same springs in 3 diff clutches and wus diff, wtf lmao. its pissin me off cus jus bogs off the line then revvs up and pulls after like 5mph i know this is random, but do i need the thin shim to go on before the front pulley half or not, as its gets you higher gearing but loses a bit of accel
no, you space the variator.. the front pulley should stay in line with the rear pulley on the clutch.. the 2 opposing pulleys can be alterd but its not worthwile to do so... so his clutch with hios springs worked on your bike? weigh your clutch
so the front vatiaor face and the front rear one should be in line? and when you say weigh the clutch, you mean, clutch with no springs and drum? orr what? ive got 4 clutches cheers
weigh the clutch unit, thenm compair to the friends who's clutch ran nice in your bike... if you have fited the stiffist springs from the dopler set and it STILL runs low rpm at pull off i wont be buying them.. LOL the FIXED pulleys (as in the 2 that dont move in and out) should sit perfectly true to each other or you loose alot of power to belt run.. the rollers wont last and you will kill belts quick.. put a straight edge over the tranny cover then messure from the edge to the belt front an back.. ajust accordingly
ive got a laser aligner for linging up sprockets from the axle sprocket to engine sprocket at karting, ill use that but, surely if you space the front pulley away its not going to get into as high a gear, the little shim made like 3mph difference
you dont space the front pulley, that stays where it is,, you space the variator ether side of the shaft..
so would i put spacers behind the variator to move it over, as apposed to pouttin variator on, and the sleeve on crank, then a shim, then the drive face
you have everything in the normal order as it should be.... then remove the spacer that sits behind the variator.. replace with washers that equate to this thickness (make sure there not shity washers as they will swell when torque is apply'd) then one at a time move these washers from the back to the front of the variator inner shaft (not the crank in other words.. the thing the variator slides on) then record your findings...... also to add.. the pulley's shoudl always be allighned by a tight belt at the HALF WAY point of travel of both of the pulley's (variator and torque drive)
changed clutch and rollers and contra, has rapid accel now but like no top end, think rollers are too light for the contra OMG polini variator, been in for 2 weeks, 3 of the rollers have HUGE flats on them, and theres like loadsa of bits off them in the variator at the top of the ramps shit quality
LOL using 3 of a certian weight and having the setup wrong will result in poor roller life.. malossi rollers seem to last really well.
i use polini varo wi malossi rollers seem to work ok but i would like to use genuine piaggo rollers (15.5g) but been milled out to around 13 as they wear a lot slower so last longer allegidly unk: