Boost Bottle

I just bought a stage6 boost bottle. The design is for a 70cc so I'm guessing the volume needed is correct. Does anyone have the formula for volume and what it is relevant to?

You guys have any opinions on these things?

 

ive got the malossi 1 and and i can state everyone will say they dont do sod all, even i think that myself they jsut look good, i only like mine becasue its the malossi 1 and u can see it pump in and out, the suggested use of them is to cllect the wasted mixture between the carb and reeds when the throttle is released and when pulled again it is taken from the chamber and used. all aload of rubbish if u ask me. hope this helps lol

 

How much extra HP you getting?

 

i hope your joking.... :w00t:

may help rideability but wont add any power

 

I heard you get like 15bhp+ speed boosts.

 

everyone slates then but in my opinion they make ur bike run better when the bike is running rich...dunno why but my bike was running rich as fuck and proper made a difference with the boost bottle on..

 

Thanks guys. I'm running a slightly oversized carb for my setup, and I'm hoping this bottle will take the bog out of my throttle roll to WOT. I'm not expecting a hp increase, just a smoother takeoff.

 

to be fair most people on here are binary in their throttle movements so wont notice a difference, it has been tested and the correct volume boost bottle WILL smooth out power delivery at between zero and half throttle.

i have an explination of it somwhere (may have formulae)

EDIT


Boost Bottle

How does a Boost Bottle improve performance? Air rushes thru the carb on the intake cycle. Ignition accelerates the piston down, forcing the reeds to snap shut. The momentum (inertia) of the air has to go someplace. It goes back thru the carb causing a double rich mixture. The result can be rough idle or hesitation.

Due to the high velocity of the fuel air mixture through the carb boot, we need to take advantage of this momentum/inertia energy. The Boost Bottle and tube provide storage for the fuel air mixture between carb boots. The energy (pulse) forces the pre-atomized mixture in the tube from the previous cycle into the adjoining carb boot where the reeds are just opening and ready to receive the fuel air mixture. The boost bottle and tube provide a "boost" supercharge effect to each cycle.

The boost bottle is most effective at lower and mid-range rpm, and, when you are on & off the throttle. It assists in filling the cylinder (shorter distance) for a fraction of a second until the carburetor venturi gets enough velocity to fully atomize the fuel. The advantage is that it brings up the torque and horsepower in the bottom of the rpm range, up to where the pipe(s) starts to work. There is a small benefit at high rpm's.

What Size? Singles = usually the CC of one cylinder or larger. 700cc Twins = 300cc boost bottle. 700cc Triples = 225cc.

Variables: Engine CC's, Carb Size, RPM below pipe, Number of cylinders. Large carbs like larger bottles/tubes. Triples like smaller due to less time between pulses.

I use the TSR computer software to calculate the Boost Bottle for a specific set up.

Yes they work, when the size is right, the inertia of the air is stored like a spring in the boost bottle to help charge the next cycle. Try tuning a Yamaha Phazer without it's boost bottle!

Power valve engines may not have similar performance gains because the valves will keep the bottom end crisp. Testing w/ powervalves will probably show gains off idle and low bottom end. Is it worth it?? That depends on what you are willing to pay for some torque and a couple of horses!

(taken from http://www.2-stroke-porting.com/bbottle.htm)


For more information on this see http://www.eindiancompanies.com/images/resonator.htm

This is based on the YEIS (yamaha Energy Induction System), which is yamaha's own name for the boost bottle.

(RD air cooled boost bottles)

 

I have it installed. The bottle itself was 70-75ml, so I Didn't use much hose at all.
I'll post results when I get a ride in. I'm on baby duty.

 

Nice setup, what sort of speeds are you getting i was thinking of that setup

 

Max speed so far is 62.5MPH on the GPS. That speed was taken right after the install of the Yasuni and MHR-R, without tuning on the tranny. Since then I've had higher clock speeds(115KPH), but nothing official(GPS). My clock may be more accurate now that I have the Aerox rims that are 13 instead of the stock Zuma rims that are 10 inch.

My wife had a baby in March so I haven't been riding much, but I've been working on my Zuma alot. I'm guessing to be 65MPH or more.

I tend to never be happy with my setup. I had a 21mm Arreche, now I have a 24mm Arreche that I'm selling. Next on the carb line up is a 21mm Dellorto Black edition.

 

Test run yesterday was not successful. Could the bottle have leaned me out to the point of backfiring?

I shortened the hose, thats when it backfired. I put the long hose back in and my bike ran the way it did before the bottle. No gains.

Could the backfiring be from a loose hose connection?

 

I put the bottle back on today and am having the same backfiring and sputtering issue that I had before. I doens't matter where I put the a/f screw. I think tomorrow I'll put a bigger pilot jet in.

When I unplug the bottle and cover the nipple on the manifold and my bike runs fine......except for the bogging.

 

if its making your bike run shitter mabe u should not use it? :msn1:

 

nothing ventured, nothing gained, stick at it and see what results you get with it set-up right. if you come to the point where its more hassle than good then whip it off.

 

nothing ventured, nothing gained, stick at it and see what results you get with it set-up right. if you come to the point where it's more hassle than good then whip it off.[/quote]

Thats what I'm talkin about.