evening all ive just swapped my boatian bt125t for a piaggio nrg 50 ( are these liquid cooled?) anyway the lad told me this before i had it , but ive took the chance anyway... the bike starts n rides perfect but if you let the revs go uncder 2000 the bike cuts out?? :wtf: starts up 1st time straight after but does cut out under 2000 does anyone know why this is ? and isit hard/expensive to fix? thanks liam
it could be that you just need to turn up the idle speed on the carb and set it up properly.. or it could be a lack of compression kinda thing (i.e gaskets, scored barrel, rings, warped head)
thanks for the reply are all the above apart from the idle speed expensive jobs?? hope i dont end up paying out hundreds :msn1:
not really, most expensive would be a new kit but you can get a polini sport for 120 so its not that bad, but still, im not 100% sure if what i said is right so wait for someone else to post... or if you can just whip off the barrel and have a look
just read it again and seen youve got a 50 not 70.. if its not a carb problem just get a 70 kit and it should sort it
thanks again for your advice!! spoke to my mate yesterday he seems to think it may be a problem with the carb too, had a play with the idle screw and got it ticking over at 2000 but if you rev it up high n let it go it goes down past 2000 and cuts out at 1000 revs arc: could it be that the jets in the carb need cleaning ? after tinkering and admiring the bike i realised its a NRG MC3 which made me quite happy , liquid cooled. im happy with the swap even with the tick over problem lol
Good deal Wind the idle screw in, the one in the middle usually a pozi drive with a spring in it i hope your turning? If not you need to tighten up the throttle cable either at the handlebars, or on the carb itself
give the carb a good clean out, and the airfilter, and change the spark plug you got a very good deal
thanks for the replys guys its a V plate nrg MC3 only done 11000 miles , not a mark on the plastics been very looked after , got some carbonfibre extra's , its blue with lime green calipers etc etc K n N air filter , and whatever else the previos owner did to it(engine wise) , i havent a clue because the lad i got it off only got it to make a quick penny and dosent know alot about bikes. well i paid £200 for the boatian bt125 , and the lad gave me the nrg plus £20 so the bike stands me at £180 even with the carb problem thats gotta be a proper bargin :drool: im no good with engine , well no exp, i know what the carb is spark plug , rev cable and simple thiungs so i think ill take the carb off the the week and give it a good clean out, when i dare lol thanks
just because its an mc3 doesnt mean its liquid cooled, most of them seem to be air are you sure its liquid?
they idle at 2000rpm..... well 1800 ish.. it aint a car. just to be sure check all your vacumm pipes, reeds and the like, new plug and cap. GOOD move on the swap tho, what idiot took that trade?
lol its liquid cooled because its says so on the engine plus theres a screw off cap under the handlebars that says coolant/liquid cooled.... oh and it has a radiator behind the front plastics still not dared take the carb off yet im scared it wont start again with my little/no experience when the bikes cold like when i 1st start it up and get to traffic lights it will happily tick over at 2000 on its own its when its been riding abit it just bogs out if you let the throttle cable go so im sat at lights revvin up like i want to race everyone lol the lad i swapped is a bit of a dick to be honest and like to think hes got fingers in all pies , but he hasnt, obviously lol looking to swap for a speedfight 100 soon if anyones interested?? than ks for the replys :tup:
so do we all think that my problem is carb related?? and if i brought i brand new carb would that fix the problem? tbh though i'd rather try and fix it myself .... i know it would give me some good satisfaction to fix the bike myself unk:
ok mate, well first things first.... buy a haynes manual best £15 you'll spend honestly mate perfect for a newbie have you tried screwing your idle inwards btw?
Yea ive had a play with the idle screw, dosent make much differnce when its been riden abit it still bogs out at traffic lights when it should be ticking over :wtf: haynes manuals a good idea too
Sounds like the cable wants tightening mate, take your handlebar cover of and wind the unit out on your throttle
thanks so ive got to tighten it where it meets the handlebar rather than where it runs into the engine. hopfully it will just be a simple as that , gonna have a play in a mo imp:
You can lossen it at either but at the handle bar will do your oil pump aswell so if thats too tight loosen the shit outa it