I have a peugeot speedfight LC 50cc just done a cylinder change and new stator just won't start got spark.
Well it smell like it and there is a lot air in the fuel it's does fire for about 4-6 secs that's is it.
Dont know much about speedshites i'm afraid, but if you have air in the fuel it needs bleeding/priming. The timing is fixed on 2 strokes so you cant get that wrong, and if its cranking over and you have a spark, but its not going then you have a fuelling issue. Have you checked the vac line is operating the tap properly? Allowing fuel to flow?
Why did you change the cylinder and stator for in the first place? Was the stator new? If not might be showing a spark out of the barrel however when under compression it might not be powerful enough! If not it definitely sounds like a bad jetting problem. Keep us up-to-date with how it goes.....
We'll tried again today still getting nice spark and I think is a faulty fuel tap when turn the bike over the fuel does not move in the tube but if I suck on the vacuum pipe the fuel moves.
OK, so you most likely have an air leak somewhere around the vacuum pipe, the one that leads from the manifold and the reed block to the carburettor. It's either split or damaged and you can easily get replacement tubing from a car spares shop. Window washer tubing will work just fine - just make sure that you match the diameter to your old pipe. Did you take the reed block off when you changed the cylinder? if so, check that the reed block and manifold are properly sealed to the engine block. If you aren't sure, take them off again, smear some silicone Instant Gasket onto the mating surfaces and bolt them back on, they need to be air-tight. The fuel tap is fine if you suck on the pipe and fuel flows.
That's what I am gong to do that's what I thought I must have a air leak some where can I get that gasket sealer anywhere? Yeah I did take the reed block off.
Most car spares shops stock it. Most DIY stores like B&Q do too. You might even find that Poundland does! While you have the reed block off, just check that the reeds aren't damaged, If they are, they won't seal and hold the vacuum.
If they are damaged, you might see cracks in them, the edge might be chipped, or they may be bent through fatigue. The problem is, the reeds can't be turned over as they only fit one way, so if they are badly bent and don't sit flush with the reed block, you will probably need new ones. Reeds should act as a one-way valve and of they don't seal, they will allow leakage back along the inlet manifold.
We'll got some gasket sealer today took all the carb and manifold cleaned it made sure all the old gasket was off and applied some new gasket sealer and put all back bleed the fuel system and tried starting and it's running. Clocks don't work what do you think that is?
OK, does the horn or the indicators work? If the horn and indicators are dead, start by checking the fuse located in the hatch where the battery is. The fuse is next to the yellow starter relay and is one of the car 'bladed' type. If the fuse is OK but they still don't work, then check the big multi-plug connectors inside the front fairing that are located around the headstock, they have a habit of working loose.
Horn work fine and the fuse is fine so how far up the headstock are the plugs will check them 2morrow?
They are just about where the front suspension leg meets the steering tube, behind the headlamp. They are on the right hand side, looking from the front (they are on my TKR2 anyway). They should be two white plastic blocks with about a dozen or so connections in each one. Take them apart, clean the contacts, then make sure that they go together fully. If you have a thin cable tie, it might be worth fastening the plug and socket together using it, to stop them from being shaken loose by vibration again.
