Okay whats the best 'method' for setting up your transmission? What do you change first, springs, contra spring, rollers ect? i know its alot of trial and error but a starting point will help
depends what parts are allready fitted to the bike if its standard leave it alone , if you have a sports exhaust use lighter rollers to suit the new exhausts power band , maybe some stiffer clutch springs , belt and contra spring only really need to be upgraded when i bigbore kit is involved to prevent belt slip
Hi. Agree with everything steeve says. It's a helluva big topic but here goes. You have a rox. The thing with minarelli transmissions is they have a small variator and a small spring variator at the back. Worse - if you pull it all apart you find that the slits in the rear spring loaded variator are boomerang shaped. This stops the motor over-revving at full blat on a standard machine because the standard engine is working against a transmission which is not linear. it gets harder for the engine to work against the spring in the back once you get over 30 mph. T his is why anyone who kits up a mina has a terrible time setting it up so it pulls constantly with the engine at a more ore less constant rpm (which is the whole point of the variator in the first place). The other thing is that over 45mph the variator (because it's small) and mainly because the final transmission is too low geared - the only way to go faster is to increase the rpm of the motor. The variator has run out of travel and it behaves like a fixed gear. So what do you do? Get a decent rear spring variator (and the Malossi overange is the best of them). You don't need the full pack to start with if you use your original belt. Get a better variator (again, the malossi (s) are the best IMHO Unless you want to start dremmelling your box, get a slightly longer belt (not the ovverrange belt) - hint - ludix /buxy reinforced kevlar For set up? Tighten the clutch on a rox as hard as you can woth omega springs, get a digital scale and start with heavy rollers. lots of folk are going to talk about getting a seamless transfer from clutch slip to variator bite but you will probably find that it all works great if the carb is right and you have malossi gear in the transmission. i have yet to find a mina that didn't like a stiff clutch. Using groups of thee of the same weight, reduce until you get a scoot that pulls well without screaming or losing rpm. If you find youself using a total weight of 6 rollers under 20 g- it's time to get a stiffer spring in the rear variator/corrector. Then you start again. If you've got the speed & the aceleration and the engine is working better (faster) - before you cane it, have a look at the plug & consider upping the principal by a couple of points. more rpm requires more lube. Theen you get higher gearing in the box and you'll really be getting somewhere. PS- if you do this you will run into problems with the stock final transmission case. It has no bearings in two out of the three axle housings. It relies on an oil bath to keep working and alu vs steel is no contest. G et a top perf Nardo case with needle bearings. PPs if you use a wider (kevlar) belt, it stands to reason that you will need a bigger gap at the variator. If your clutch is hard as nails and your scoot is fine over 15mph but it doesn't 'take off' - you need a washer or two so the belt isn't too pinched at the start. Good luck !
Thanks thats alot of info! Im currently running this setup: 2011 aerox stage 6 pro rep exhaust stage 6 streetrace 70cc malossi multivar 17.5mm carb malossi carbon fibre reeds (havent installed yet, what difference do they make?) 3.5g polini rollers motoforce blue strong clutch springs (crap got some malossi on order) malossi white contra spring i have a flat spot as i pull off after 5mph (if that) its pulls. i think the motoforce clutch springs are crap so i have ordered some malossi ones, these are labled rpm wise so i think ill go for the 6-8000rpm ones, apparently the streetrace and pro rep's powerband is around 7000 rpm also i have a medium stage 6 spring, similar to the malossi yellow i think that should also help. any ideas?
Yup - the stiffer clutch springs will definitely help with the take off. Get the hardest ones you can lay your mitts on. If it still isn't that good - investigate a pack of top perf variator washers. A 0.4 mm thick washer can make an amazing difference sometimes. Otherwise, a stiff three element clutch (Malossi, Polini, Stage 6) clutch will do the trick. Or you can remove some of the weight in the clutch wings on the motoforce (by drilling some holes in it). Try not to compromise the structural integrity ! The reeds make a difference if they are stiffer. You might notice that they give you more torque. But it's not night & day. The main advantage is that the stock reeds are steel - so if they break & a bit goes in the engine it tends to cause damage. The carbon ones just disintegrate & burn up - so no damage. Whatever you do - if you have the admission off, put it back on with new joints and propper silicone sealant. A leaky admission is the best way to nobble a scooter's power and make it impossible to set up - as well as possible seizure. In fact, this is the best reason to buy a vulcanised reed box. Even with sealant & new gaskets I have seen bubbles from engines with the stock reed box. Use two gaskets - one under the box & one on top - both with a thin film of sealant. I'd stay with the white spring - but get a big Malossi variator and a Ludix re-inforced belt for starters. What you're listening/feeling for is a motor that pulls from the word go with no jump in rpm/torque as the variator takes over - and then no big jump down in revs at 30-35 as the corrector opens up.
Thanks i have the malossi multivar and a motoforce kevlar belt on at the moment just hesitates as it pulls off but i think this is down to the shitty motoforce clutch springs.
Malossi springs and stronger contra spring should be here tomorrow so I'll let you know how it goes. Also the multivar is money well spent!
