Aprilia area 51 help

Discussion in 'The Workshop' started by mikestan, Aug 12, 2017.

  1. mikestan

    mikestan Member

    Messages:
    104
    Hi all
    just bought a crap exhaust for this just to get it running but it dont fit it was supposed to be for this scooter
    bought off ebay was only 40 quid but its annoyed me.
    Any ideas around it as the shop on ebay i got it from aint answering my messages. exhaust 1.jpg exhaust 2.jpg
     
  2. MARSH

    MARSH Whooooo!

    Messages:
    3,212
    Rides:
    Piaggio Typhoon
    Either return it or cut and lengthen the down pipe. Also get a new silent block fitted !!
     
  3. gilburton

    gilburton Active Member

    Messages:
    558
    Unbolt it at the bracket and see if it will then bolt it on the cylinder. You might then be able to alter the mounting holes.
    I second getting a new silentblock/rubber mounting. That one is well worn.
     
  4. Tamiyacowboy

    Tamiyacowboy Pippa's Owner

    Messages:
    1,850
    Rides:
    Piaggio Skipper
    before you even look at fitting a new pipe fix that silent block , its to far gone to be safe to ride and if its not fixed its going to cause a lot more damage trust us on that.

    pipe :

    couple ways, first is add an extender to the manifold pipe as mentioned above.

    second fit pipe to manifold and bolt it up, have a small jack to help hold the weight so the rear of the pipe dont tear out the manifold bolts. next you want a flat steel off cut of sheet, mark on it the extact points it would bolt to the main engine hanger points, then use a sharpie pen and mark off the two exhaust bolt holes onto the plate, you should then have a plate with four marks on two front and two rear.

    drill out the four marked points and craft the plate so it becomes an extender plate, you now bolt the plate to the engine mount points for exhaust hanger, then bolt the exhaust hanger to the plate, jobs a good un and you have a hanger plate adaptor, its not idea but will do the job.

    third way : make a manifold riser , this is a block of metal thats crafted and cut so it bolts to the exhaust manifold and the outlet manifold on motor bridging the gap between the exhausts manifold and the cylinder outlet manifold BUT it must be done right measured and cut then bored out to the right ID so it does not hinder the gasses escaping the engine it should be the same ID as the outlet manifolds ID and maybe taper to the exhausts manifold ID .

    i personaly would shoot for second option an adaptor plate its a more easy thing to create and fit in place with less work and tooling required
     
  5. scubabiker

    scubabiker NITROJUNKIE

    Messages:
    7,321
    Always fit a pipe from the front to the back, it will probably fit if you do it that way.
     
  6. mikestan

    mikestan Member

    Messages:
    104
    oh hell guys i didnt even notice that silent block its well gone ive too fixated on the bodywork etc and getting it running lol ill give the second option a go if i dont hear back from ebay by tuesday the latest ill seek and buy the block in the meantime.
    Thanks guys.
     
  7. mikestan

    mikestan Member

    Messages:
    104
    Well worn isn't the word disintegrated is more like it however i have the part number does any-one know of a reasonably priced uk online aprilia parts dealer iv'e seen a few and prices escalate into stupid prices?
     
  8. gilburton

    gilburton Active Member

    Messages:
    558
  9. mikestan

    mikestan Member

    Messages:
    104
    Nice one many thanks ill get one orderd this week
    however ive ran across a different issue just removed the and had then repainted the rear brake was bled and works fine however the front is being a git and no matter what i do all im getting is constant air the thing simply just wont bleed.
    this is how i bleed breaks...
    fluid lid off fill vessel
    attach clear hose to nipple
    nipple open pull brake n hold close nipple then release lever
    repeat until no more air left in tube
    im assuming this is correct has anyone else had a problem like this and if so how did you guys remedy this?
     
  10. gilburton

    gilburton Active Member

    Messages:
    558
    I have in the past pumped up the brake and then, keeping the lever in, put a cable tie round it so that the pressure is on then just leave it for a day or so. When you release the lever do it gently/slowly.
    Theory is the pressure forces the bubbles out of the caliper/pipe and back to the reservoir.
    I have done it and it worked.
     
    scubabiker likes this.
  11. scubabiker

    scubabiker NITROJUNKIE

    Messages:
    7,321
    Yeah cabletie method is good. Try holding in the lever a tad before cracking the nipple open.
     
  12. scubabiker

    scubabiker NITROJUNKIE

    Messages:
    7,321
    And try turning the bars a bit with the lever being pulled in and released rapidly, sometimes that works too
     
  13. mikestan

    mikestan Member

    Messages:
    104
    Thanks guys ill give it a try im on day 3 now and its driving me insane i have never had trouble bleeding brakes before some have taken a while but got there ...this is on a whole new level
     
  14. mikestan

    mikestan Member

    Messages:
    104
    Update guys ive done what you said taped the lever didnt have any cable ties lol with the bleed shut left it for 30 mins removed the tape slowly released the lever left it for 5 and slightly pulled the lever (about 2mm) and air was going into the reservoir repeated countless times and pistons were moving pumped them out pushed them back in a few times and the air is gone hopefully now all is well.
    I did make a stupid error i pushed the pistons back way too fast and got bloody brake fluid all over one of the freshly painted plastics lol i have washed it off with a little fairy liquid quick but its left a severe sun bleached look on the finish im hoping t-cut will resolve this if not well a little repaint it will have to be
     
  15. scubabiker

    scubabiker NITROJUNKIE

    Messages:
    7,321
    hahahaa yeah, i always spill brake fluid, i just cover EVERYTHING with plastic now. and whats the deal with brake fluid bottles, they are not poury, but gluggy if that makes sense?
    i need to do the brakes on my V4, they have a weird fault, they work fine, but when they warm up they go all soft, i guess ive got water in there or something...
     
  16. mikestan

    mikestan Member

    Messages:
    104
    yeah i know what you mean mate bleeding bottles lol however t-cut done the trick all shiny new again i suppose i got lucky as i ripped it off straight away n washed it ...so now i have front and rear brakes i decided to put my attention to the engine the silent block needs replacing anyways so why not the starter was not working i was told so went to put in a replacement to find the engine full of water.i wish id have checked more into this before i started as im more of a bodywork man than anything else lol.
    heres a pic or 2 i certainly think the reed valve is buggerd just a tad
     

    Attached Files:

  17. mikestan

    mikestan Member

    Messages:
    104
    i also dont think my mrs is very happy with this like lol mrs aint happy.jpg
     
  18. dan189216

    dan189216 Member

    Messages:
    62
    Would this be a good set up for a piaggio zip 2t ac, and how much km/h could I expect out of it? Thanks.

    - Stage6 chrome exhaust
    - Stage6 21mm R/T MK II PWK racing carb
    - Stage6 SportPro 70cc aluminium cylinder kit
    - Stage6 19x15.5 variator roller box set (6.5g to 9.5g)
    - Stage6 drive belt
    - Naraku HPC racing full circle crankshaft
    - SKF crank bearings / seals C4 - uprated race
     
    Last edited: Aug 21, 2017
  19. mikestan

    mikestan Member

    Messages:
    104
    Well a new potential problem i discovered that it has a 70 top end on it but it seems to be the standard phbn 12 gs carb will this make up the extra 20cc if it wont what size jets should it have to run this i havent a clue on this now i know its turning into a money pit lol
     

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