Hi, Im finally going to do it after rootin around for a year. This is the parts list that I'm considering. It will be a street bike. mhr rep cyl. de restricted city 16 with alloy muffler. (want to keep the bling to a minimum for stealth reasons, pipe will be sprayed matt black) v force reed. case porting. hpi ign brain. What carb/inlet manifold would you reccommend? I don't want to run a pod filter. Stock or a modified stock airbox is for me. What variator and transmission setup as well? I'm after bottom-mid the most but if it will do 60-65ish mph that would be cool. What, if any special tools do I need to work on the tranny? cheers, eel.
for that kind of spec i would use a 21mm carb... And to work on the transmission a variator/clutch locking tool or electrical impact gun is required
Thanks Capri Dave! The rattle guns are in stock. So a 21mm dellorto is the go? Now I see that there is a yasuni R and Z out. They look a bit longer in the header/divergant area. How do they compare with the city16 and each other?
R & Z are not really suitable pipes for an MHR Rep. You would be better off with a City16, the R & Z pipes are for stock 50 cylinders and work ok with sport setups
you should be running faster speeds than that with that setup. on my sr50 (had the same engine as the rox) i had a ganelli reverse exhaust malossi variator, mhr front half pulley, polini carbon reeds, malossi x kev belt and anthena unlimited cdi and i managed a true 70mph on a standerd 50 bore
lol you wish. A kev belt does'nt make it any faster, unlimited cdi will only make it a little bit faster. I am sure at stock 50 crank would break if it was doing 70mph true.
Ok, I'm getting closer. I Have the engine out and will have the case porting and epoxying finished this weekend except for matching to cyl. What do you guys do about the two scallops on either side of the inlet tract that feed the oil holes for the main bearings? They would flow fuked! I was thinking about filling them and redrilling the oiler holes. Also, I think I will piss off the oil injection and epoxy fill for more primary compression. Do boost bottles work on these engines or are they a wank? This is what I think I will buy, if I'm on the wrong track pls tell me. bgm 10mm crank (or should I go 12mm?) mhr rep cylinder kit (do these come with reed petals & can you get them with 12mm piston?) 21mm delorto (hope these have M5 thread for jets, got 100's of em) manifold to suit (rubber or alloy?) box of rollers (it already has a malossi vari with 4.8g rollers) city16 pipe What about torque drivers and what contra springs should I get? What exactly is the mod to do to the stock airbox? I think I will buy through scooter center http://www.scooter-center.com/1024-de.htm Any one better and/or cheaper that would ship to Australia? I would prefer to buy off a site sponsor or someone that posts here if it dosen't cost me any more money. Does anyone tune with egt? If so, what temps should I be chasing? How far from the pipe flange should I put the probe? What rpm would this setup do on top and where is the peak torque rpm? (don't want to make the engine sit there and eat pistons!) Should I ventilate the transmission cover? It's very hot where I am. cheers and thanks for all the help.
Blimey some pretty good questions there bud...your takeing this a lot further than the usual bolt on merchant good on ya...minor should sort you out with the answers
ive seen 120kmh (74.568mph) clock speed going down a hill on a stretch of dual carriageway close to my home a few times!! But i dont think for 1 minute my 70 goes anywhere near that fast i just laugh at these people who claim crazy top speeds on sport set ups :w00t:
Hey Minor Confusion, looking forwards to it. You can get the mhr rep in 12mm pin, here is the scooter center part # if anyones interested. M318CPI12 I also found a free yq50 shop manual in pdf, its for a 97 though. http://www.thesparesnetwork.co.uk/manua ... ame=Yamaha You will need a RAR file program to extract it though. Found a free one with google.
right, first use a 12mm piston where possible as theres less side load. takes up more space too so primary compression is up. you may want to try a 25 with it tho as the rep isnt exactly a sport kit and i run 21mm's all day with those. 25 on a rep with the yasuni on whatever crank you like really. transmission id say 10-20% gear up with an overrange variator. at work again so gotta shoot but hope i helped a little
They have started to have track days and race days on kart tracks down here and one of the rules is 21mm max carb. (another rule is you have to run an oem crank, :w00t: ) Another reason is the 21mm phbg seems to run M5x0.8 main jet thread and I literally have hundreds of them from mikuni based jetski carbs. Most between 80 and 200. However, if you think the 21 will choke it, I will treat this rule like the crank rule. And there is no fooken way I will buy a new crank from Yamaha Aus as it would be around 250 of your pounds. The rules are basically the following: 70cc max, all normal boltons, max 21mm carb, stock crank, stock reed cage, aftermarket reed petals are allowed, porting is allowed. Down here, china scooters outnumber euro scooters prob 20:1 and the racing is organised by the shops that sell them. The idea is to keep the cost down. I can see their point. However, the crank rule I disagree on. It should read something like this. "Aftermarket crankshafts are allowed providing they retain the stock stroke and rod length between centres." Most of the chinese gear already has 12mm cranks and this rule prevents alot of euro scoots from running stronger bottom ends. (and full circle balanced cranks but I wont mention that) My mate just bought an aerox so it looks like I will have to build three now!