Aerox barrel studs

Hi everybody I have just bought a 2004 seized aerox for £130 to fix up

I have remover the full cylinder and piston and have realised I am going to have to change the 4 studs

Three of the studs screwed out with the nut and one stayed in.

I have ordered a stage 6 street race kit and 4 new studs

Can anyone please help me on fitting the 4 studs because I have never had to do it and don't know if I just screw them in or have to measure them???

Thanks for your help

 

if the lumps out and on the bench, try a pipe wrench. But dont force it as it might shear off. If the threads ok on it, then re-use it as normal. You can order the standard bolts as replacements.
I see that you have a Naraku piston in your hand.
Before you fit the new top end, chamfer the port edges in the barrel and any sharp edges on the piston, this will stop the rings snagging in the barrel and causing any premature damage.

 

I am just going to replace all the stud, they only cost £5 for the 4.

When I fit the new studs do I just screw them in as far as they go with some loctite. I have never changed the studs but the nuts are welded on.

 

Yes, thats exactly what you do

 

So you don't need to put ten to a certain torque

 

no

 

Do not loctite them in ! There is no earthly reason to do this.
It certinly is 'Nakarued'.... Get a top perf kit !

Just my 'hapeth - I think the standard studs are crap. It's worth shelling out a bit more for some Malossi studs. They are thicker (same thread - obviously) and this means they don't have the annoying habit of shearing off. The other advantage is that the cylinder is aligned better on the engine (which means better performance & less wear because the piston is aligned better in the bore) - and also - it you use an aftermarket kit with those 4 separate little repton o rings - they make a better seal on the thicker studs. This avoids all sorts of trouble with the compression leaking into the water circuit.

 

I bought this aerox with this kit already in and it was seized, he said I seized within one hour of assembling.

I have ordered a stage6 streetrace kit and 4 new studs. The only studs that pedparts had in was motoforce ones so I ordered them I hope they are good enough? Pedparts told me to loctite them in so don't know whether to or not?

 

excellent kit. My gal has this kit at the mo and it's a doozie with the yas r and a gearup kit/do 17.5 carb etc.
No point in the loctite. In fact I would put a little oil on the ends of the threads before screwing them into the block.
The main thing to do with that kit is measure the squitch band and use sealant on all gaskets when you mount up. When I did a dry run to test her squitch it had 0.2 mm with the paper gasket (yikes!) so I added about 1 mm to give her a reasonable value 1mm is about the strict minimum with 95 octane if you want it to last). So do a dry run, measure the squitch with some solder taped to the piston and go for 1 mm.
Then when you've found the right wafers, put sealant on all of them, both sides, and build it up and bolt it down.
Oh, and chamfer the ports first, and sand the edge of the piston skirt with emery paper then wash @& dry it.
Etc!
The reason the nakaru failed by the way is the piston clip. Is the crank ok? If it is, I would blast that engine, cylinder off, with 8 bars of compressed air in case there are any bits lurking in there. Or better still strip & rebuild. What crank does it have ?

 

The crank looks good and it's just the standard one, i will give it a blow out to get anything that's in there out.

I am just fitting the kit and selling the bike on.

On my main aerox I fitted the pm xtech 70s and never used sealant and that has been going good for 8000 km with good compression but in going to change the ring soon.

Another question on my main aerox with a pm xtech gear up kit 17.5 carb, te accelaration from 0-20mph is terrible. I know it has something to do with the transmition. I tried my friends rear pulley spring clutch ect and it reved a bit before pulling forward that's what I want. I have tried my polini 3G with stronger clutch springs and all torque springs and no difference I have even tried a bran knew standard clutch I bought with 1000rpm spring and it's still no good what could this be?

 

I would suggest three avenues :
first- the mixture screw. It affects the first stages of acceleration. Try riching it up by closing it one quarter of a turn. Better? good.

Second, the clutch. There is not one clutch that is stiff enough for a decent motor. Put the stiffest effing springs in there you can.

Lastly, belt slip. Take the pulley nut off the crank. Push the pulley so it pinches the belt. If the belt is too wide to let the pulley go snug onto the variator slider, it's not slipping enough. Put a Top Perf washer on there so the belt isn't pinched. If you have no washers, an old washer from a spark plug will do while you order some!



good luck.

 

Another question on my main aerox with a pm xtech gear up kit 17.5 carb, te accelaration from 0-20mph is terrible. I know it has something to do with the transmition. I tried my friends rear pulley spring clutch ect and it reved a bit before pulling forward that's what I want. I have tried my polini 3G with stronger clutch springs and all torque springs and no difference I have even tried a bran knew standard clutch I bought with 1000rpm spring and it's still no good what could this be?[/quote]

With the pm ali x tech piston/barrel setup, you need 4.5gr rollers, but when you fit the gear-up kit the acceleration bogs badly initially, this is because the clutch engages to early, change the clutch springs for stonger ones, standard torque spring. Had this exact problem on my zip. I have the pmt ali x tech setup, multivar 2000, 4.59gr rollers, 21mm performance carb, carbon reeds, malossi 15/38 gear-up. Goes like stink now i sorted the clutch springs out.

 

Do you know what rpm the stock torque spring is, I have not got the stock spring and have some different ones from 1000rpm , 1500rpm and 2000rpm
Thanks

 

You dont want one thats too weak, the engine needs to get into the powerband before the clutch engages. Change the rollers first for lighter ones, 4.5, 4.6 gr, see how that goes, then attack the clutch springs for stronger ones if you still get the same problem.

 

I have already got 4gram in and do you know if the problem could be a spring slider. I noticed that there is not one on the side the spring touches the actual clutch?

 

wouldn't cause this problem.
Have you done a compression test? Should be 150 psi or above on a 180

 

I haven't done a compression test but haven't changed the ring in about 7000 kms, would low compression mean I would have bad take off and then it would be okay after that?

 

so it is only bad take off then? Then at about 20mph it flies off normally?

 

Yer only on take off it Is really bad until the speedo hits 20 it flys and I can get the front wheel up