Aerox 50 charging circuit help

I’d replaced the stator after breaking down after the battery ran down after the back plate of the stator had come loose and the stator was chewed to bits. I also installed a new rectifier and a good quality battery.

The rectifier melted within about an hour and every time the bike was revved it blew every single bulb including the dash.

I rewired all the lights off the battery and then fitted LED lights to reduce the draw from the battery (most LED won’t run off AC and was worried why too much voltage was getting through). It was very easy to cut the AC feed to the lights and take a DC feed off the ignition live for the front lights (the same wires do the dash which was a result as those bulbs kept blowing too) and take a DC ignition feed from the cdi unit under the seat at the rear and run it to the back light (note the stop light is DC already so i only needed to feed the light side of the 2 filament bulb).

Anyway - I think coincidentally new the stator I fitted (cheap new one off eBay) has gone. The bike needs to be charged every night or it stops working due to the battery draining as it’s not getting a charging feed from the stator, through the rectifier, to the battery.

There is a healthy spark so the flywheel and spark pick up are ok.

So, to double check if it’s a wiring issue Ive created a new charging circuit. I’ve run 2 new wires directly from the stator wires to another new rectifier and then new wires from the new rectifier to the positive and negative battery terminals. This basically means I’ve wired a new charging circuit from stator, through the new rectifier/regulator to the battery. But I cannot get any readings from my multimeter from the output side of the rectifier (ie positive wire) and battery is still not charging.

So surely this has illiminated any suspected breaks in wires or bad earths in the original wiring as I’m using all new wiring I’ve just run.

Would it be pretty safe to assume the stator has gone open circuit or is bad even though it’s new? I get no AC readings from the stator output into the rectifier and no DC readings from the rectifier output.

Has anyone else had a new stator fail so quickly and how would I check? It must have been working at first as it was blueing bulbs as soon as the bike revved and was charging the battery at 14.4v until it melted the first rectifier/regulator.

I get around 20 miles at the moment just on battery (no charge) before the battery drains to under 10v and the cdi unit stops working and controlling the spark and the lights dim. I’ve had to be rescued too many times and am running out of favours from friends with vans.

I’m happy to buy another stator but don’t want to buy cheap if they’re renowned for not working. I’d literally done 50 miles on it. I’ve visually inspected it and there’s no signs of damage.

How does one test it?

Thanks,

Simon

 

Genuine parts can be like that too.
Moped parts are just made so cheap these days

 

Ive just fitted a new stator on the 70cc and it cured months of checking wiring, batteries, rectifiers and breaking down with a flat battery. Turns out the new stator I had fitted was a duff one from the factory. Annoyingly I assumed it was fine and spent time changing everything else too. Only to find it was that still.

Hope this helps someone else.

Don’t assume new parts are ok. Especially if they’re cheaply made.

 

I can confirm this happens more often than you think.