hi I am having a problem with my grandsons aerox 50. It seems to be overcharging as when you rev it it blows the bulbs. I have changed the regulator, any help would be appreciated. Thank you
STATOR would be the problem . if you have changed the reg and its still blowing that means the stator has a problem, usually its one of the coils that are shielded has worn and is now shorting out changing the voltage produced in the stator side meaning the regulator just cannot cope. pop off the right hand side engine case ( remove the cooling pump/fan) and then remove the flywheel, check the stators windings and wiring, and also trace the stators ground to make sure its not free from the frame. also check all other grounds to the engine/frame are intact and not loose/ corroded ) if its eating regulator/rectifiers it sounds like the stator has a coil fault. if you have a multimeter you could check the stator is giving the correct ohm readings stated in the aerox service manual.
Hiya. Sorry so long since 1st post, been working away. I have today changed the stator and put another new rectifier on this bike but the problem is still the same, as soon as you rev it the rear bulb glows very bright and blows, the same with the indicators, the main front bulb doesn't blow. Any ideas. Thank you
Update on my last post. I have checked the voltage coming to the battery and on tick over it is 12v under revs it is 24v
thats not right buddy and is the cause of the overvolting on the lighting system. at high rpm the regulator should only be feeding around 14v to the battery , if its dumping 24v its way to high and is blowing the lamps out as your getting. make sure regulator/ rectifier is bolted to frame as a grounding point. CHECK ALL GROUNDS including the stator so check all grounds on the engine and frame ( wires that are bolted direct to frame / engine casing ).
Did you get this fixed? If you have fitted new stator and rectifier/regulator it sounds like there is some break between the two, so the reg is not pulling the voltage down. Out of interest do you have the electric choke and and its associated control box , black box next to the regulator, (at least on a 2013 model )
I also had the same issue. I’d replaced the stator (the back plate had come loose and the stator was chewed to bits) and new rectifier. The rectifier melted within about an hour and every time the bike was revved it blew every single bulb including the dash. I rewired all the lights off the battery which I recommend you do and then fitted LED lights to reduce the draw from the battery (note most LED won’t run off AC. It was very easy to cut the AC feed to the lights and take a DC feed off the ignition live for the front lights (the same wires do the dash) and take a DC ignition feed from the cdi unit and run it to the back light (note the stop light is DC already so you only need to feed the light side of the 2 filament bulb. Hope that helps. Anyway - I also need some help. I think coincidentally new the stator I fitted (cheap new one off eBay) has gone. The bike needs to be charged every night or it stops working on me due to the battery draining as it’s not getting a charging feed from the stator through the rectifier to the battery. There is a healthy spark so the flywheel and spark pick up are ok. To double check if it’s axwiting issue Ive created a new charging circuit. I’ve run 2 new wires directly from the stator wires to another new rectifier and then new wires from the new rectifier to the positive and negative battery terminals. This basically means I’ve wired a new charging circuit from stator, rectifier/regulator to the battery. But I cannot get any readings from my multimeter from output (ie positive wire) and battery is still not charging. So surely this could illiminate any thoughts of breaks in wires or bad earths in the original wiring. Would it be pretty safe to assume the stator is open circuit? I get no AC readings from the stator into the rectifier and no DC readings from the rectifier output. Has anyone else had a new stator fail so quickly and how would I check? Just on battery I get around 20 miles before the battery drains to under 10v and the cdi unit stops working. I’ve had to be rescued too many times and am running out of favours from friends with vans. Thanks, Simon
