one near inlet is the vacume and the 2 on ether side are over flows. The small thin one is oviously oil and the big oe to the backs fuel
Yup. Hurstly if you can do it and you fancy a ride to coulsdon ill happily do it for you. Or reigate either as i know its like guildford dorking reigate. As i go that way to aldershot
If this helps, the coolant does not run through this carb. Like andy said, two silver down facing pipes at sides are overflows and dont need to be connected to anything. Little gold one sticking out side is oil. One by the inlet manifold is vaccum. And big gold one is petrol. Top is ibously throttle cable and one next to that is choke. Nothing else needs to be connected there is no connection for water ect lol.
i wasnt sure if it was for an air or liquid cooled engine I asked cos I couldnt see any nipples for water for the cylinder head connections
yeah my mate has to do it with his 21mil carb on his aerox (a/c type carb hes got on there) tryed it with my nitro before too because i thought the cylinder head to carb pipes were leaking - turned out to be a faulty head gasket - but thats another story on a cold winters day my mate matt has to kick his bike over ages before it starts up and sometimes it bogs for a couple of seconds in the cold nights with the carb on
If you done have the choke, get a broken throttle cable, with the nipple at one end, and you can use that for a choke, leave it so just a bit for you to be able to grab hold of sticks out top then when you need it pull it up as you electric start the bike and you wont have any problems. If you dont have electric start get a mate to pull it up when your kicking it over. or put some mole grips on it, only need to rev it slighty for a couple secs then you can let go and it should carry on running.
ok cheers guys.. on my standard carb liquid ran through it also.. how can i make the oil hose longer without taking it off the oil pump ?? cheers ben.
cant beleive people think theres a L.C and A.C carb :w00t: on a L.C engine manufacturers run a water pipe to the carb to help prevent the carb iceing up in really cold conditions... some people say it aids warm up too...but it wont help starting in the winter because untill your engine actually warms up the water is stone cold in the pipe...Also you have to remember that if fitted your Thermostat prevents any water circulateing around the engine untill yes the engines warmed up!!! In summer the carb heater could actually cost you a little bit of power...especially on a hot day!!! cool air is denser in oxygen than warm air which is why your scooter seems to go a bit better on a nice cold night (especially if your jettings on the rich side) so in the summer the last thing you need is a red hot water pipe plumbed into your carb.....The above principle is also why Race bikes/cars have a cold air pick up from the front of the machine and if your really smart an enclosed cold air box
go to a motor factors and look for an appropriate sized connector to add a piece of pipe to the oil line... or pull the brass nipple/connector off an old carb and use that
Clamp the oil tank feed hose, get a new length of same bore hose for the carb oil feed, use long nosed pliers and pull the original out. Pop the new hose end into a boiling cup of water for a few minutes to make it soft, shake dry (ensure no water remains) and then use the pliers to slide the new hose straight back onto the pump outlet. Done this many times in my Foggy Rep days imp:
