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just put bigger/smaller jets init. as for mods, id get a 17.5mm carb with an open filter. probably looking at like £60-£80. and a new plug with...
fuck sake..... IF THE BIKE IS REVVING AT 8000-9000rpm, IT WILL GET THE MOST POWER. SPEED DOESNT AFFECT IT, ITS THE REV RANGE
i believe its called a 'hard break in' or something along those lines. its commonly done on motocross bikes. the idea is that by keeping the rings...
threadlock and grease!!! nothing worse than snapping a seized bolt, replacing it, and having it snap the next time you come to undo it
why would you want to?
how accurates your speedo? my aerox says 30 when its actually doing about 22
is it water cooled?
does it die at a specific throttle range?
main jet i reckon, the air screw only operates at the 1st 1/4 turn.
try taking the choke off for the acceleration problem
what? imagine riding a geared bike in 6th at 20mph, then again in 2nd. itll accelerate faster in a lower gear in a differant rev range as it...
by revving slow i meant the noise it does when its bogging down
jetting. try adjusting the needle clip (assuming peds have these), my mx bike used to bog like a c*nt off the bottom end when it was running too lean.
well if you set the clutch and rollers up to work at 13000 revs, the stage 6 is fastest. if you set it to run at 8000 revs it would be the slowest.
id say dont go over half throttle for an hours riding, then 3/4 throttle for the next hour. Then for the 3rd hour gradually break into full...
i reckon you should get a 2nd hand one, as a brand new one in my opinion is a waste of money.
for the indicator problem, check your earth (if it has one) my lighting board for the car had a loose earth and it caused a similar problem
use gocompare, it gives you a list of quotes so you just choose the cheapest
aerox 50, yasuni pipe, everything else standard i think. clocks say 50, just over 40 by dads car though.
id say go lighter
